Sustainability at Paris Fashion Week
Au revoir et Bonsoir à Paris Fashion Week. Paris is known to be one of the most exclusive and high-profile events in the fashion calendar, where designers, models, and fashion enthusiasts gather to witness the unveiling of the latest collections. From the 23rd of September to the 1st of October, the world's most renowned designers presented their new collections here.
As the fashion world grapples with its environmental impact, sustainability has become a significant influencing factor in consumers' purchasing decisions, with studies showing that up to 60% of consumers consider sustainability when making fashion choices. The fashion industry, often associated with overconsumption and waste, is increasingly pressured to adopt eco-friendly practices. At PFW 2024, this shift toward sustainability is becoming more apparent than ever.
Designers Leading the Charge
Unsurprisingly, Stella McCartney is one of the consistent leaders in sustainable fashion. McCartney's commitment to ethical and eco-friendly fashion continues to set the tone for others in the industry. We can see her passion for sustainability in her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which featured sustainable materials such as organic cotton, vegan leather, and regenerated nylon. McCartney is infamous for her long-held belief that sustainable luxury can be glamorous and environmentally conscious. One initiative that stands out is Stella McCartney Cares Green, a non-profit organization that addresses environmental challenges by supporting sustainable business models and educational initiatives within the fashion sector.
Chemena Kamali made her PFW Directorial debut with Chloé, enhancing the brand's pre-existing notes of femininity and their commitment to sustainability, something Kamaliis is well known for. This season saw sustainable materials and practices incorporated into Chloé's elegant, effortless pieces. Chloé is getting very familiar with sustainability, having been B Corp certified since 2021 – reflecting the brand's adherence to social and environmental standards and striving to improve. In this collection, Kamali skillfully balanced elegance with eco-consciousness, creating feminine, facile pieces that are as kind to the planet as they are to the eye.
Similarly, Gabriela Hearst, another renowned advocate for sustainability, presented a collection that utilized deadstock fabrics, natural dyes, and biodegradable materials. From making her footwear free from polyurethane to employing rural Uruguayan women, Hearst's slow-fashion approach contrasts fast fashion's wastefulness. She developed her SS25 accessories collection using INVERSA Python, which protects biodiversity in the Greater Everglades from predation by the invasive python. INVERSA offers ethical exotics in partnership with funding from government agencies and non-profits. Through her designs, she champions a future where quality and durability trump overproduction and trends, creating garments meant to last both in style and longevity.
Industry-Wide Initiatives
Some initiatives only apply to European fashion weeks (sorry, London and New York! ).. However, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles is relevant to the fashion industry. Launched in 2022, it aims to provide regulations to make textile products more durable, repairable, and recyclable. Some of these relevant key actions include ensuring that by 2030, all textile products entering the EU market must be long-lasting and recyclable. However, it begins at the design step, where 80% of the success in implementing circularity occurs.
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode oversees Paris Fashion Week and has also introduced and supported sustainability-focused initiatives.
One is the Paris Good Fashion initiative, which aims to dethrone Copenhagen as the sustainable fashion capital by 2030 by reducing the fashion industry's environmental impact.
Additionally, popular luxury retail platforms (see Vestiaire Collective) emphasize the importance of circular fashion, continue to collaborate with high-profile designers, and curate pre-loved collections based on Parisian style. They extend the life of brands and consumers' garments, promoting a second-hand economy that challenges the traditional notion that fashion must always be new.
Beyond the Runway: Green Innovations at PFW
Don't be fooled! Sustainability efforts at Paris Fashion Week are not confined to the Ready-To-Wear collections alone. More and more brands are employing sustainable event management companies, like BETTER BETAK, who have brought you runways from FENDI, Saint Laurent and helped orchestrate Vogue World earlier this year. With a focus on 'Re-shaping the Show,' Bureau Betak envisions a progressive approach to sustainable production practices. Viewing it not as a constraint but as an invitation for innovation. Brands collaborating with such sustainability-conscious companies must be one of the greenest flags at PFW.
Looking Ahead
The future of sustainability at Paris Fashion Week looks promising. Still, a question lingers: How do we get brands at Paris Fashion Week to incorporate sustainability when it isn't part of their brand's DNA?
Brands like Balenciaga, which has yet to historically prioritize sustainability, began exploring greener avenues this season. Be it for new opportunities, creative influence, or changing consumer behavior. No matter which way, it serves as an example that even an old dog can learn a trick or two. For the fashion industry, success will rely on continued collaboration, creativity, and commitment to reducing waste, emissions, and overproduction.
Watch our EMA IMPACT panel on sustainable fashion!
Libby Simons is a final-year sustainability student with experience in sustainability fieldwork and corporate compliance. She is passionate about the intersection of sustainability and the creative industries.
This article is made possible by the EMA Creator Content Fund